文學相對論/五之一 。旅行

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今日文選 文學相對論/五之一 。旅行

  今日文選

文學相對論/五之一 。旅行
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海明威越走越窮,也越走越黎明,多賺了一筆記憶,以及每年回想都有進帳的小孳息……

●李崇建:細雨沒帶來浪漫,

深夜卻帶來驚奇

耀明,

每年你都會到各地旅行,我很想知道旅行對你的意義。因為你是個特別的人,對事物的品味與眾不同,甚至旅行的方式也不同。

千禧年我們同遊法國,我聽從你的古怪提議,搭最末一班地鐵進城,在巴黎徒步晃蕩一整夜,從蒙馬特晃到香榭麗舍大道,經歷一場瑰麗迷離的浪遊。

巴黎的夜晚很寂寥,夜間商店集中在紅燈區,我們不辨方向,甚至沒有方向,在細膩的夜雨中誤闖此區。細雨沒帶來浪漫,深夜卻帶來驚奇,兩個白人湊近搭訕,竟要求我秀中國功夫。巴黎街頭的深夜兩點,你駐足一旁冷靜觀看,我像個蠟像被擺弄著,腦海迴盪著Brook Benton浪漫憂傷的歌曲〈Rainy Night in Georgia〉,只是場景挪移到巴黎。兩個白人熱情為我「喬」功夫姿勢,我深刻地感覺胯下被侵犯了。那個細雨的夜啊!驚得我尷尬了兩秒,才拔腿一路狂奔,躲進巷弄瑟縮著身軀。隨後我疑神疑鬼、左顧右盼,不安地在巴黎夜行,總覺得黑暗中有隻手隨時會伸出來,往我胯下輕輕一撩……

最後我停留在巴黎市政廣場,因為那裡夜燈明亮。我們像極了白爛電影裡的傻蛋,兩人吐口水競遠打發時間,熬到黎明快要來臨了,才疲憊地撐到巴士底監獄站,與醉鬼們搭第一班地鐵回住處。

我至今仍然不明白,你是怎麼想旅行這件事呢?那一整夜的巴黎徒步,你不停的低著頭疾行,還撿到105元法郎,以及一個保險套。

●甘耀明:一個動念的引信很長,需要時間燃燒

崇建,

上世紀末,你帶我去台中市的「犁站」、「獅子王」迪斯可Pub見習,霓光異境的夜店,之後從燈炫煙迷的舞池出來,看著重劃區夜色,走入無人街道,心中有股靠近都市另一種靈魂的青春寂涼。如今夜店附近蓋起了大樓,舊地無端地消失,記憶卻無從消散。如果我邀你夜遊巴黎,源頭溯及你帶我的台中夜店行,一個動念的引信很長,需要時間燃燒。

那次巴黎夜遊的起點在蒙馬特山丘,遠眺天際線,夜景不像她白日的熱鬧光景,燈海薄弱。這個靠觀光客撐起榮景的城市要睡去了,而我們回不去地鐵車程要四十分鐘的郊區住房,我有奇異感覺,努力醒著闖進巴黎的夢。見鬼的是,憑著我買的中文旅遊導覽,卻找不到可以駐足的小酒館,赫然發現旅遊書是五年前出版的,人事滄桑,小酒館沒了,卻意外開啟我們走到天亮的夜遊。

你被騷擾,是第二晚的事。我們巴黎夜遊共兩天,第一天走不過癮,第二天晚上又進城闖一夜。我記得那情色區,處處紅燈,街旁有許多付錢可以看到春宮秀的小窺洞,我們爭辯到底小孔內是有人打真軍,還是影片,卻不想在貧窮旅行中多浪費一塊錢解開謎底。就在此時,兩個外國人來跟你討教中國功夫,伸手偷摸你的寶貝,我卻在一旁嫌你教得不夠熱情而沒做好國民外交。

然後,你叫我趕快跑,我們手刀跑開。抱歉,我笑著跑開呀!

●李崇建:我們將往更大的方向流浪

耀明,

你旅行的動念如此瑰奇,隨興到臨時起意,平添了不少深刻記憶。我和一個浪漫的玩伴同遊,彷彿回到童年的率性,不斷回憶孩提時的玩樂歷史,雖然旅途充滿冒險,卻有一種說不出的過癮。

那種癮頭的根源,如今想想便是旅行本身。我孩提時期從未旅行,只是在山林河流玩耍,進行浪遊的活動,卻建構了我對旅行的內涵。

旅行是一種探索,一種純然的玩耍,想來你體內也有浪遊的靈魂。

我們在巴黎晃蕩近月,旅行箱放著幾本書,按圖索驥跑到塞納河左岸,坐在雙叟咖啡館,想像沙特與海明威的眼神;在巴黎的書店閒晃,假裝我們是即將成名的馬奎斯;路邊的少女眼神虔敬,像膜拜式的注視著你,前來搭訕只是為了索菸。那個巴黎的旅程,是我們一起旅行的開端,因為年輕而太過隨興,甚至誤闖同志酒吧,在舞池被同志力邀共舞,那一刻我覺得自己也許是個同志?是被王爾德帶來巴黎的異鄉人?連自己都有了迷離的錯覺!

不知誰帶了一本教堂導覽?我們在歐洲教堂看上了癮,到史特拉斯堡看黑教堂,體會什麼是「轟」然「矗」立;驅車到德國科隆的黑教堂巡禮,聽廣場前的另類音樂如梵音;到夏特爾市看更有名的白教堂,跟著教徒進去禮拜吟詩領聖餐,我們卻沒有宗教信仰,只為感染神聖的寧靜氣氛。鄰近巴黎的夏特爾街道太寧靜,河畔的餐廳太美好,童年的玩性在體內奔流,竟趕不上回巴黎的最後列車,只好在車站度過一個晚上,在車站想像馬爾康.考利(Malcolm Cowley)的《流浪者歸來》,我們是飄泊的年輕作家,是迷惘的流浪者,和最後列車的乘客身影揮手告別,從事著孤獨卻滿足的探索,也許當時就已經預言,我們將往更大的方向流浪,在寫作的世界裡浪遊。

旅行對我而言,就是一種探索,一種純粹玩的活動,如屁孩放肆的浪費時間,難道於你也是如此嗎?

●甘耀明:想寫豐饒的字

跟世界對抗或溝通

崇建,

離開家門,是旅行的開始,是在異地與自己對話。

前往巴黎是我首次出國,那時已三十歲。我新買來的大行李箱除了瓶瓶罐罐,還裝了《流動的饗宴》、《蒙馬特遺書》與幾大冊的世界藝術史。後者用以面對羅浮宮那些千奇百怪的藝術品,沒設定目標只能走馬看花,最後在迷宮般的地下室展覽層看到畫幅不大的〈蒙娜麗莎的微笑〉,人擠人般朝聖,還挺勞傷,總算把自己硬裝的藝術天線折斷了。

憑著邱妙津在《蒙馬特遺書》提到的地點尋訪,小說不是旅遊指南,找太久只找到自己的聯想。在一百英畝的拉雪茲神父公墓找到舞蹈家伊莎朵拉.鄧肯的壁龕式墳墓,墓壁上有人用英文寫「我想跟妳跳舞」。我對鄧肯想像來自她的自傳《童女之舞》,不是這本詹宏志早年翻譯的絕版書不會去找她。海明威的巴黎旅記《流動的饗宴》是迷人的,他年輕窮困時徘徊的咖啡館,如今是觀光地,來杯咖啡成了高貴時髦的旅客必備。我的巴黎窮旅,無法像海明威坐遍左岸的咖啡館,我常常歇腳的是巴黎的小公園,闃靜的,有鴿子的,有梧桐與盛夏光斑搖曳的,不知名的小角落,拿出筆記本寫幾段的小說爛情節,心中有許多糾纏的喜悅與平靜,此際莫名地旋開旋滅,感覺頭頂有根很長的天線又長出來了,想寫豐饒的字跟世界對抗或溝通,自言自語也好。三十歲第一次出國,是去巴黎,當初戀一樣,寫了很多情書般的小說。

會找你兩夜遊巴黎到天明,是想闖入巴黎的夜夢,畢竟那座藝術之城當時還挺安全。那兩夜非常冷,當地報紙發布新聞是巴黎十年來最冷的夏季,兩人穿著同款、買自拉法葉百貨公司外頭的地攤貨仿皮大衣,一件約四百台幣,走在無人街道,累了就在鐵椅上聊天。

巴黎每年有上千萬人拜訪,少有人像孤魂野鬼般閒晃,白日那些萬頭攢動的觀光客消失了,我們霸占了全景。這夜遊恐怕連自己年紀大了也無法複製,走整夜,驅趕寒意,甩開追來的睡意,卻感到記憶在十年後還像影子一樣跑來,頻頻在身後翻滾跳躍,無法安靜。

海明威在巴黎時,日子窮困,自認飢餓有益磨練身心,磨練他年輕的筆。如今的巴黎越來越觀光化,離海明威越來越遠。然那晚的冒險,或許我們無意間模仿了海明威越走越窮,也越走越黎明,多賺了一筆記憶,以及每年回想都有進帳的小孳息。

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